The origin of torrijas is traditionally associated with a humble dish made from leftovers, whose base —in its most popular version— consists of stale bread soaked in milk, battered and fried.
Its antecedent could go back to Ancient Rome, where a similar sweet called aliter dulcia was prepared, a recipe found in the Apicius, a 4th-century cookbook.
The torrija made with Lumia is a contemporary reinterpretation, the result of the creative vision of chef Luis Valls, head chef at El Poblet (two Michelin stars). During a visit to Todolí Citrus Fundació, Valls listened attentively when the president of the Foundation, Vicente Todolí, explained that the albedo of some citrus fruits (the white layer between the pulp and the peel), which is normally bitter, can in some varieties be deliciously sweet and crunchy. In particular, the albedo of the lumia is also highly absorbent —much like bread.
That comment stuck in the chef’s mind, and he decided to try out the concept.
To reduce its bitterness, Valls applies a blanching process to this “torrija”: a technique in which the albedo is boiled and cooled multiple times. Since the phenolic compounds responsible for bitterness are water-soluble, this process softens the sharper notes of the citrus.
The result is a torrija without bread, with a juicy texture, subtle aroma and an unexpectedly familiar flavour in which all the typical notes of a traditional torrija can still be recognised.
Torrija of Lumia from Valencia
(Serves 4)
Ingredients
1 lumia from Valencia
150 ml orange vinegar
500 g sourdough ice cream
For the infused milk
½ stick cinnamon
1 star anise
½ vanilla pod
100 g sugar
Peel of ½ lemon
1.5 l whole milk
For the torrija
3 eggs
100 g cornstarch
300 ml sunflower oil
100 g white sugar
25 g ground cinnamon
For the fermented honey gel
1 kg honey
1 star anise
Peel of 2 bergamots
1 l water
60 g salt
1 g xanthan gum
For the puffed quinoa
500 g quinoa
Salt
Sunflower oil
Preparation
Carefully extract the albedo from the lumia, separating it from the peel.
Blanch it 12 times, starting with cold water and bringing it to a boil each time (cover with baking paper to keep it submerged).
Boil the infused milk with all its ingredients. Let it sit for 1 hour and strain.
Cook the albedos in the milk over low heat for 45 minutes and let them cool inside the milk.
Remove the albedos, dredge in cornstarch and then dip in beaten egg. Fry in abundant sunflower oil until golden. Drain on paper towel and coat with sugar and cinnamon.
For the honey gel, mix the honey with water, aromatics and salt. Vacuum-seal and ferment for 7 to 10 days (watch it — it will swell). Strain, add 150 ml of orange vinegar and divide into 150 ml bags. Add xanthan gum, stir and allow to gel. Blend until smooth and place in a squeeze bottle. Store in the fridge.
Rinse the quinoa and cook it with twice its volume in water. Let dry completely. Fry until it puffs. Drain and salt.
Plating
Place dots of orange vinegar gel in a circle on the plate. Add the puffed quinoa. On top, place a quenelle of sourdough ice cream and the lumia torrija. Garnish as desired.
